In the early morning in summertime the visitor may see far over the hills of Highgate and Hampstead on the north; over Essex, with the Thames widening as it approaches the sea, on the east; at one time the view of Crystal Palace sparkling against the range of Surrey Hills beyond it on the south; and all the marvellous array of the West End streets and squares, with Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens looking like little fields, stretching far away along the banks of the river to the west.
The remainder of the ascent is along the back of the upper portion of the second of the three domes alluded to above, which is of brickwork, and rises over the inner dome in the shape of a cone, supporting the lantern, ball, and cross.
Above the steps the ascent has to be made by open spiral iron staircases, the last of which leads on to a narrow aperture opening into a small room in the dome, exactly under the ball and cross.
The arduous ascent is hard work, as it has to be made by climbing up projections in the masonry on one side of this room, and by finally squeezing through a small circular opening at the top, which gives access to a platform open on all sides to the sky.
Above rises the dark ball, 6 ft. 2 in. in diameter, weighing about 5,600 lb. and surmounted by a gilded cross, 15 feet high, weighing 3,360 lb.
In 1822, Homer, the artist, spent the whole summer in the lantern making sketches of London, from which the well-known panorama exhibited at the Colosseum in 1829 was painted.
Another adventurous draughtsman named Gwyn, when measuring the top of the dome, slipped down the smooth surface, and would have lost his life had not his foot struck against a projecting lump of lead. Thus supported he remained standing as it were between heaven and earth till he was rescued by one of his assistants.