The Palace and its surroundings

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The palace also has become more important. It has been added to, and one sees trees and gardens between it and the river. Beyond, on the other hank, a little higher up than the palace, are some new towers belonging to an important building, and a large chapel. That is the palace of the Archbishops of Canterbury.

Archbishop Boniface and one of his predecessors, Hubert Walter, have been building it, so as to be lodged near the Court. It is quite close down to the river, and seems more like a baron's strong castle than the home of an archbishop; but Boniface is of a warlike disposition, and has been known to have worn armour under his silken robes.

The surrounding scenery on that side does not yet show many signs of change; there are still those interminable marshes, with the line of low distant hills beyond, the course of the ditches and pools marked by a low fringe of willows and alders.

On the Westminster side again, beyond the Abbey and Palace, and the few houses which have sprung up round them, the marshes recommence, and reach to Chelsea.

The river shores are covered with sedges and tall reeds and rushes, and as we pass wild fowl rise up from among them; and the only sign of human life may be a hind or peasant in a boat, fishing or cutting the reeds in bundles, for they are famous for making the best sort of thatch, with which, unfortunately, whole streets in the city are still roofed.

What a solitude are the upper reaches of the river, with scarcely a sound but the wind swishing through the reeds as they bend before it, or the rippling and lapping of the tide. One is glad to get back to where there is life and movement, and the busy hum of men, and see the dancing gleams of light from the houses on the bridge reflected on the rushing waters as they whirl through the old arches of the bridge.

Beyond the bridge now, or "below the bridge", are moored many ships in a part of the river called the Pool. A few come through, bringing foreign wines to the Three Cranes Wharf, Vintners' Wharf and Queenhithe; but there is a heavy toll demanded, and there is considerable delay in raising the drawbridge. Smaller boats are continually plying to and fro, and bringing merchandise to the many wharves above the bridge.

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